Pattern written in US crochet terms
Skill level: advanced
Finished Size: 12 inch square
Hook size: 5.5mm/I
Yarn: Worsted Weight or Aran
Final Stitch Count: 41 sts per side
Notes
This pattern is Copyright © 2019 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
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Helpful Tutorials
All of the below tutorials are totally optional. You don’t have to use any of these techniques if you don’t want to. But if you’d like to see how they are done, you can watch them right here.
Learn how to make a double magic circle to start your square. It’s more secure than a traditional magic circle, but you’ll still want to make sure you weave your ends well.
Standing stitches are a great way to start a new round with new yarn. If you don’t want to use them, see the special stitches section for the more traditional alternative.
Invisible joins make for really tidy looking crochet. I tend to only use them where I know they’ll show (like round 5 and round 11 of this pattern).
And just in case you get a little stuck trying to invisible join to a standing stitch, here you go.
Color Placement
Use this graphic to help you plan your colors. I changed colors every round for the sample. Rounds 5 and 11 are the rounds that stand out the most because they have back post stitches worked around them. The dotted line signifies the shape created by the front post stitches.
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- pm – place marker
- r(#) – round number
- rm – remove marker
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sm – stitch marker
- sp – space
- st– stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Bphdc – {back post half double crochet} just like regular hdc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from back to front around the post of the st
Fpdc/fpsc/fptr – {front post double/single/treble crochet} just like regular dc/sc/tr, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from front to back around the post of the st
Fptr2tog – {front post treble two together} yo twice, insert your hook from front to back around post of first indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice {2 loops remain on hook}, yo twice, insert your hook from front to back around post of the next indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice {3 loops remain on hook}, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook
Htr – {half treble crochet} yo twice, insert your hook into the indicated st or sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook
Htr-V – htr, ch1, htr
PC – {popcorn stitch} 4dc into same st, remove hook from working loop, insert hook into first dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through first dc
Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternately, slst to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc}
Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternately, slst to join yarn then ch2 to count as your first hdc}
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
Standing V – standing dc, ch1, dc
Tr-W – {treble W stitch, yes, just making stitches up now} tr, ch1, tr, ch1, tr
V – {V stitch} dc, ch1, dc
Important – Before you Begin
Color changes and order are not listed. Instructions to fasten off are only included where it’s necessary regardless of what color you plan to use in the next round. Where possible, each round begins with the option to start with new yarn OR to continue with the same yarn. This is to offer you complete creative freedom and encourage you to experiment with your own colors.
Pattern
Round 1
Magic circle start: Begin with magic circle. Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. 2dc into mc, ch2. [3dc in mc, ch2] 3 times. Close mc. Slst to top of beginning ch3 to join.
Chain loop start: Ch4 and slst to first ch to form a loop. Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. 2dc into ch loop, ch2. [3dc in loop, ch2] 3 times. Slst to top of beginning ch3 to join. {Hint: when weaving ends, weave your very first end under the base of the r1 dc in a loop and pull tightly to close the center of the square and get the look of a magic circle.}
12 dc, 4 ch2 sp (20 st around)
Round 2
With new yarn: Standing sc in the middle dc of any 3dc group.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next st, ch1 and sc in same st.
*^Sk next dc, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch2 sp, sk next dc,^ sc in next dc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
24 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch2 sp (36 st around)
Round 2
Round 3
With new yarn: Standing V in any ch2 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into each of next 3 dc and into ch2 sp, ch4 and dc in same ch2 sp {counts as first V}.
Ch2 and V again in same ch2 sp. *^Ch1, sk next 3dc, V in next sc, pm in ch1 sp of V just made, ch1, sk next 3 dc,^ (V, ch2, V) in next ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc of first v {or the 3rd ch of your starting ch4} to join.
24 dc, 4 ch2 sp, 20 ch1 sp (52 st around)
Round 3
Round 4
With new yarn: Standing dc in the ch1 sp of the first V made into any ch2 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch1 sp, ch3.
2 more dc into same ch1 sp. *^Sk next dc, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch2 sp, sk next dc, 3dc in next ch1 sp, sk next dc, sk next ch1 sp, fpdc around next dc, ch3, sk next ch1 sp, fpdc around next dc, sk next ch1 sp, sk next dc,^ 3dc in next ch1 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
8 fpdc, 48 dc, 4 ch3 sp, 4 ch2 sp (76 st around)
Round 5
With new yarn: Standing hdc in first dc after any fpdc.
Or, with same yarn: Ch2 {counts as first hdc here and throughout}.
Hdc in next 5 sts. *^4hdc in next ch2 sp, hdc in next 6 st, ch1, sk next fpdc, PC in r3 ch1 sp with the marker {make sure you do not work over the r4 ch3, work in front of it}, rm, ch1, sk the r4 ch3 sp, sk the next fpdc,^ hdc in next 6 st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join. FASTEN OFF.
4 PC, 64 hdc, 8 ch1 sp (76 st around)
Round 5
Round 6
With new yarn: Standing bphdc around 2nd hdc after any (ch1, PC, ch1).
Bphdc around next 13 hdc. *^Fptr around r4 fpdc that comes before the PC, ch2, sc in r4 ch3 sp keeping work behind r5, ch2, fptr around next r4 fpdc on the other side of the PC, sk the next hdc,^ bphdc around next 14 sts.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first bphdc to join.
8 fptr, 56 bphdc, 4 sc, 8 ch2 sp (84 st around)
Round 7
Note: In round 7 you’ll sk some sts on either side of the fptrs, 2 on one side and 3 on the other. This is on purpose to compensate for the natural lean of the sts.
With new yarn: Standing sc in 4th bphdc after any fptr.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next 3 bphdc, ch1 and sc in same st.
Sc in next 2 sts. *^2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next 2 sts, fptr around next fptr, 3tr in next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next sc, 3tr in next ch2 sp, fptr around next fptr, sk next 3 st,^ sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
8 fptr, 24 tr, 44 sc, 4 ch1 sp (80 st around)
Round 8
With new yarn: Standing sc in 4th sc after any fptr.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next 3 sts, ch1 and sc in same st as last slst.
Ch1 and sc again in same st {optional: pm in the ch1 sp to make it easy to identify when you start r9}. *^Sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch1, sc) in next st, sk next 3 sts, fptr around next fptr, 2dc in next tr, dc in next tr, 2dc in next tr, (dc, ch2, dc) in next ch1 sp {ch2 counts as corner from here on}, 2dc in next tr, dc in next tr, 2dc in next tr, fptr around next fptr, sk next 3 sts,^ (sc, ch1, sc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
8 fptr, 48 dc, 28 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp (23 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 9
With new yarn: Standing sc in sc after any (fptr, sc, ch1).
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch1 sp, slst into next sc, ch1 and sc in same st.
Sc in next 4 sts. *^Sk next (ch1, sc), fptr around next fptr, ch1, V in next st, sk next 2 sts, htr-V in next st, sk next 2 sts, (tr-W, ch2, tr-W) in next corner ch2 sp, sk next 2 sts, htr-V in next st, sk next 2 sts, V in next st, ch1, fptr around next fptr, sk next (sc, ch1),^ sc in next 5 sts.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Pm in middle st of each 5sc group {this is optional if you feel you can easily find the middle stitch to work into in r11}.
8 fptr, 24 tr, 16 htr, 16 dc, 20 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 40 ch1 sp (31 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 10
With new yarn: Standing dc in first ch1 sp after any fptr.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next 5 sts and into next ch1 sp, ch3.
Dc again in same ch1 sp. *^Sk next st, 2dc in next ch1 sp, [sk next 2 sts, 3dc in next ch1 sp] twice, sk next st, 2dc in next ch1 sp, sk next st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp, sk next st, 2dc in next ch1 sp, sk next st, [3dc in next ch1 sp, sk next 2 sts] twice, 2dc in next ch1 sp, sk next st, 2dc in next ch1 sp, ch2, fptr around next fptr, ch1, sk next 5 sts, fptr around next fptr, ch2,^ 2dc in next ch1 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
8 fptr, 112 dc, 12 ch2 sp, 4 ch1 sp (35 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 11
With new yarn: Standing hdc in first dc after any (fptr, ch2 sp).
Or, with same yarn: Ch2.
Hdc in next 13 sts. *^(Hdc, ch2, hdc) in corner ch2 sp, hdc in next 14 sts, 2hdc in next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next fptr, PC in marked r9 st keeping work in front of r10 ch1 sp, rm, ch1, sk the r10 ch1 sp, sk next fptr, 2hdc in next ch2 sp,^ hdc in next 14 sts.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join. FASTEN OFF.
4 PC, 136 hdc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp (37 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 12
With new yarn: Standing sc in any corner ch2 sp, ch2, sc again in same sp.
*^Bphdc around next 17 hdc, ch1, fptr2tog working one leg around each r10 ftpr on either side of the PC, ch1, sk the (ch1, PC, ch1) of r11 {now behind the fptr2tog}, bphdc around next 17 hdc,^ (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
4 fptr2tog, 136 bphdc, 8 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp (39 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 13
With new yarn: Standing sc in any corner ch2 sp, ch2, sc again in same sp.
Or, with same yarn: Ch1 and sc in same st as join, (sc, ch2, sc) in next corner ch2 sp.
*^Sc in next 18 sts, sc in next ch1 sp, fpsc around fptr2tog, sc in next ch1 sp, sc in each st across to corner,^ (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more to first st. Slst to first sc to join.
4 fpsc, 160 sc, 4 ch2 sp (41 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners)
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