Pattern written in US crochet terms
Skill level: intermediate
Finished Size: 12 inch square
Hook size: 6mm/J
Yarn: Red Heart With Love (Aran weight)
Final Stitch Count: 35 sts per side
Pattern Notes
This pattern was designed specifically for the Moogly CAL 2018. Click here to check out this awesome annual event that’s busting at the seams with amazing free afghan block patterns from many super talented designers.
If you’re familiar with my patterns you may want to take note that this pattern is made with a larger hook than I normally use and the stitch count per side is not my standard. If you want to make it to match up to my other squares, I’d recommend dropping down a hook size and adding a round or two of solid sc/hdc/dc as needed to get to 12 inches.
This pattern is Copyright © 2018 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
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This pattern includes round by round graphics to help you visualize where the stitches go. They are not meant to be complete instructions. Rather, they complement it. Use them with the pattern to help you see where to place your stitches.
Color changes are not listed. Why? So that you can feel free to be as creative with color as you like. Each round includes instructions for using the same yarn as the last round (if possible) or for starting with new yarn.
If you need help or have any questions, scroll to the bottom of this page. There are links to where you can find lots of support.
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- mc – magic circle
- r(#) – round number
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sp – space
- st– stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternately: slst into the indicated starting st and ch2}
Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternately: slst into the indicated starting st and ch3}
V – dc, ch1, dc
PC – {popcorn} 4dc into same st, remove hook from working loop, insert hook into first dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through first dc
Standing PC – (standing dc, 3dc) into same st, then complete as for regular PC {hint: a ch3 can be used in place of a standing dc to begin this st}
XW-V – {extra wide V} dc, ch3, dc
fpsc/fpdc – {front post single/double crochet} like regular sc/dc but instead of inserting the hook in the top two loops of a stitch you insert your hook from front to back around the post of the stitch to pull up a loop
Htr – {half treble crochet} yo two times, insert hook into indicated st or sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook
Pattern
Begin with magic circle. {Click here to learn how to make a magic circle – video tutorial includes instructions for making a chain loop look like a magic circle.}
Round 1: Ch4 {counts as first dc, ch1}. [Dc into mc, ch1] 7 times. Close mc. Slst to 3rd ch of starting ch to join.
8 dc, 8 ch1 sp (16 st around)
Round 2: Slst into next ch1 sp, ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in any ch1 sp.} 2 more dc in same ch1 sp, sk next dc. [3dc in next ch1 sp, sk next dc] 7 times. Slst to first dc to join.
24 dc
Round 3: Ch2 {counts as first hdc here and throughout}. {Or, with new yarn: standing hdc in first dc of any 3dc group.} Hdc in next 2 dc. *^Keeping work in front of r2 sts tr into skipped r1 dc directly below {do not sk any dc behind the tr just made},^ hdc in next 3 dc.* Repeat from * to * 6 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join.
8 tr, 24 hdc (32 st around)
Round 4: Slst into next hdc, ch4 and dc in same st {counts as first V}. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in 2nd hdc of any 3hdc group, ch1, and dc again in same st – counts as first V.} Sk next hdc. [V in next st, sk next hdc] 15 times. Slst to first dc of first V to join.
16 V (48 st around)
Round 5: Sk all dc, work only into ch1 sps of Vs. Slst into next ch1 sp, ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in ch1 sp of any V.} 3 more dc into same ch1 sp. [4dc in next ch1 sp] 15 times. Slst to first dc to join.
64 dc
Round 6: Slst into next dc, ch2. {Or, with new yarn: standing hdc in 2nd dc of any 4dc group.} Hdc in next 2 dc. *^Keeping work in front of r5 sts tr into sp between Vs directly below {this means to work between the two dc of the Vs rather than into the top two loops}, sk next dc {may be hidden behind the tr just made}^ hdc in next 3 dc.* Repeat from * to * 14 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join. Fasten off.
16 tr, 48 hdc (64 st around)
Round 7: With new yarn, standing PC in any tr, ch5, sk next 3 hdc. [PC in next tr, ch5, sk next 3 hdc] 15 times. Slst to first PC to join. Fasten off.
16 PC, 16 ch5 sp (96 st around)
Hint for r8: When making a fpsc around a PC your post st will go around the very top of the PC near the ch sps. Don’t worry if it feels like you’re going more around the chain sps than the PC. If you need to, when you’re done with this round, you can adjust the r7 chain sps by pulling them lightly until they feel like they’re back in place, or when you block your square they should even out.
Round 8: Keep all sts in front of r7 ch5 sps, do not work into ch5 sps at all. Standing dc in 2nd r6 hdc of any 3hdc group that is between PCs, ch3, dc again in same st {counts as first XW-V}. *^Fpsc around next PC,^ XW-V in 2nd r6 hdc of next 3hdc group between PCs.* Repeat from * to * 14 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
16 XW-V, 16 fpsc (96 st around)
Round 9: Sk all sts, work only into ch3 sps of XW-Vs. Slst into next ch3 sp, ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in any ch3 sp.} (2dc, ch2, 3dc) into same ch3 sp. [(3dc, ch2, 3dc) into next ch3 sp] 15 times. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
96 dc, 16 ch2 sp (128 st around)
Round 10: This round is worked entirely into r8 fpsc, sk all other sts, keep all sts BEHIND r9. Standing dc in any r8 fpsc, ch3, dc again in same st {counts as first XW-V}, ch3. [XW-V in next r8 fpsc, ch3] 15 times. Slst to first dc to join.
16 XW-V, 16 ch3 sp (128 st around)
Click here for r10 full frontal. Click here for r10 full moon. Click here for more views of working r10.
Round 11: Sk all sts, work only into r9 and r10 ch sps as instructed. Slst into ch3 sp of XW-V, ch1 and sc in same sp. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in ch3 sp of any r10 XW-V.} 2 more sc in same ch3 sp. [Ch1, sc into ch2 sp from r9 and next r10 ch3 sp together, ch1, 3sc into ch3 sp of next XW-V] twice, ch1, sc into ch2 sp from r9 and next r10 ch3 sp together, ch1. *^(3dc, ch2, 3dc) into ch3 sp of next XW-V {ch2 sp counts as corner},^ [ch1, sc into ch2 sp from r9 and next r10 ch3 sp together, ch1, 3sc into ch3 sp of next XW-V] 3 times, ch1, sc into ch2 sp from r9 and next r10 ch3 sp together, ch1.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
24 dc, 52 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 32 ch1 sps (27 st per side)
Round 12: Ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in same sc as join.} *^Hdc in next st, sc in next 11 st/ch1 sp, hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, dc in next ch1, htr in next 5 st/ch1 sp, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in ch2 corner, htr in next 5 st/ch1 sp, dc in next ch1,^ dc in next sc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
56 htr, 16 dc, 8 hdc, 44 sc, 4 ch2 sps (31 st per side)
Round 13: Ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in any st.} [Dc in each st across to corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp] 4 times. Dc in each remaining st to first st. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
140 dc, 4 ch2 sps (35 st per side)
Weave in all your ends and block. You’re done!
Credits
Original pattern and design by Polly Plum
Photography by Courtney Laube
Graphic design by Polly Plum
Pattern testing by Jan White & Courtney Laube
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