Pattern written in US crochet terms
Skill level: intermediate
Finished Size: 12 inch square
Hook size: 5.5mm/I or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: Worsted Weight or Aran
Final Stitch Count: 40 sts per side
Gauge: 2.25″ through round 2
Notes
Need a smaller square to complement this one? The first few rounds are exactly the same as the 6 inch Ferris square!
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Helpful Techniques
In a few rounds I use the invisible join. It’s optional, of course, but on those rounds you’ll find it makes your work look especially good. Here’s how to do it:
I love starting rounds with standing stitches! They’re really pretty easy to use when you get used to them, and you’ll find just about any stitch can be a standing stitch when you need it to be. Here’s how they work:
Here are my tips for invisible joining to standing stitches:
I always begin with a magic circle where I can, but I also use a double magic circle because it’s more secure than a regular magic circle. You can see my photo tutorial here, or watch this video tutorial:
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- r(#) – round number
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sp – space
- st– stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches:
beg-PC – {beginning popcorn} ch3, 3dc into same sp, remove hook from working loop, insert hook into top ch of beginning ch3, put working loop back on hook and pull through ch
bpdc/bpsc – {back post double/single crochet} just like regular dc/sc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from back to front around the post of the st
fpdc – {front post double crochet} just like regular dc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from front to back around the post of the st
PC – {popcorn stitch} 4dc into same st, remove hook from working loop, insert hook into first dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through first dc
Standing bpdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in front back to front around post of indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternately, slst from front to back around post of st to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first bpdc}
Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternately, slst to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc}
Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternately, slst to join yarn then ch2 to count as your first hdc}
Standing PC – (standing dc, 3dc) into same st, then complete as for regular PC {hint: a ch3 can be used in place of a standing dc to begin this st}
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
Standing XWV – standing dc, ch3, dc
WV – {wide V stitch} dc, ch2, dc
XWV – {extra wide V stitch} dc, ch3, dc
Pattern
Round 1
Begin with mc. Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. 11 more dc into mc. Close mc. Slst to top of beginning ch3 to join.
12 dc
Round 2
With new yarn: Standing sc in any dc.
Or, with same yarn: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.
Ch1. [Sc in next dc, ch1] 11 times. Slst to first sc to join.
12 sc, 12 ch1 sp (24 st around)
Note: check your gauge after round 2. I should measure about 2.25 inches across. Close is good enough. There will be room to adjust the last round for size. If your size is much different you will want to change to a larger or smaller hook.
Round 3
With new yarn: Standing PC in any ch1 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch1 sp and make beg-PC.
Ch3, sk next sc. [PC in next ch1 sp, ch3, sk next sc] 11 times. Slst to first PC to join.
12 PC, 12 ch3 sp (48 st around)
Round 4
With new yarn: Standing dc in any ch3 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch3 sp, ch3.
3 more dc into same ch3 sp, sk next PC. [4 dc into next ch3 sp, sk next PC] 11 times. Invisible join {see above}, or slst to first dc to join. FASTEN OFF.
48 dc
Round 5
With new yarn: Standing bpdc around the first dc of any 4 dc group.
Bpdc around next 3 dc, ch1. [Bpdc around next 4 dc, ch1] 11 times. Slst to first bpdc to join.
48 dc, 12 ch1 sp (60 st around)
Round 6
With new yarn: Standing sc in the sp between 2nd and 3rd dc of any 4 dc group.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next dc, ch1, sc in sp between that dc and next dc.
Sk next 2 dc. *^XWV in next ch1 sp, sk next 2 dc,^ sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, sk next 2 dc.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
12 XWV, 12 sc (72 st around)
Round 7
With new yarn: Standing dc in ch3 sp of any XWV.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next dc and next ch3 sp, ch3.
6 more dc into same ch3 sp. *^Sk next dc, fpdc around next sc, sk next dc,^ 7dc in next ch3 sp. Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Invisible join, or slst to first dc to join. FASTEN OFF.
12 fpdc, 84 dc (96 st around)
Round 8
With new yarn: Standing bpdc around any fpdc {alternately: slst around the post of any fpdc and ch3 to count as your first bpdc}.
Ch2 and bpdc around same fpdc. *^[Sk next dc, bpsc around next dc, ch1] twice, sk next dc, bpsc around next dc, sk next dc,^ (bpdc, ch2, bpdc) around next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first bpdc to join.
24 bpdc, 36 bpsc, 12 ch2 sp, 24 ch1 sp (108 st around)
Round 9
With new yarn: Standing dc in any ch2 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch2 sp, ch3.
6 more dc into same ch2 sp. *^Sk next (bpdc, bpsc), sc in next ch1 sp, ch1, sk next bpsc, sc in next ch1 sp, sk next (bpsc, bpdc),^ 7dc in next ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Invisible join, or slst to first dc to join. FASTEN OFF.
84 dc, 24 sc, 12 ch1 sp (120 st around)
Round 10
With new yarn: Standing XWV in any ch1 sp.
*^Sk next (sc, dc), [bpsc around next dc, ch1, sk next dc] twice, bpsc around next dc, sk next (dc, sc),^ XWV in next ch1 sp.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
12 xwv, 36 bpsc, 24 ch1 sp (120 st around)
Round 11
With new yarn: Standing dc in ch3 sp of any XWV.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch3 sp, ch3.
8 more dc into same ch3 sp. *^Sk next (dc, bpsc, ch1), dc in next sc, sk next (ch1, bpsc, dc),^ 9dc in next ch3 sp.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Invisible join, or slst to first dc to join. FASTEN OFF.
120 dc
Round 12
With new yarn: Standing bpsc around any single dc between 2 groups of 9 dc.
*^Ch2, sk next dc, [bpsc around next dc, ch1, sk next dc] 3 times, bpsc around next dc, ch2, sk next dc,^ bpsc around next dc.* Repeat from * to * 10 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first bpsc to join.
60 bpsc, 24 ch2 sp, 36 ch1 sp (144 st around)
Note: if your work curls at this point, give it a light stretch and it should flatten out.
Round 13
With new yarn: Standing sc in any bpsc between ch2 sps.
Or, with same yarn: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.
*^Ch1, sc in next ch2 sp, [ch1, sk next bpsc, sc in next ch1 sp] 3 times, ch1, sk next (bpsc, ch2, bpsc), tr in next ch2 sp, ch1, tr in next bpsc, ch1, [tr in next ch1 sp, ch1, tr in next bpsc, ch1] 3 times, tr in next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next (bpsc, ch2, bpsc), [sc in next ch1 sp, ch1, sk next bpsc], 3 times, sc in next ch2 sp, ch1,^ sc in next bpsc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
36 tr, 36 sc, 72 ch1 sp (144 st around)
Round 14
With new yarn: Standing hdc in the ch1 sp after join {or any ch1 sp immediately after the sc made into a bpsc, the middle sc of the side}.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch1 sp, ch2 {counts as first hdc}.
[Hdc in next sc, hdc in next ch1 sp] 3 times. *^Sk next sc, [dc in next ch1 sp, dc in next tr] 4 times, 2tr in next ch1 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next tr {ch2 counts as corner}, 2 tr in next ch1 sp, [dc in next tr, dc in next ch1 sp] 4 times, sk next sc, [hdc in next ch1 sp, hdc in next sc] 3 times, hdc in next ch1 sp, sk next sc {this should be the middle sc},^ hdc in next ch1 sp, [hdc in next sc, hdc in next ch1 sp] 3 times.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join.
24 tr, 64 dc, 56 hdc, 4 ch2 sp (36 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Round 15
Note: before you start round 15, measure your work. If you don’t need the full size of the double crochet you can use half double crochets or single crochets instead.
With new yarn: Standing dc in any corner ch2 sp, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp.
Or, with same yarn: Ch3, dc in each st across to corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp.
*^Dc in each st across to next corner,^ (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ to first st. Invisible join, or slst to first st to join. Fasten off.
160 dc, 4 ch2 sp (40 st per side, not counting ch2 corners)
Credits
Original pattern and design by Polly Plum
Photography & graphic design by Polly Plum
Pattern testing by Heather Dykstra, Courtney Laube, & Jan White
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