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Welcome to part 1 of the Wild Wild Wallflower Mandala CAL! Yes, it’s finally time. If you’re already acquainted with the event, please, continue on. If not, please see this post for all the details on what you’ll need to make this mandala and how the CAL works. In part 1 we’ll be making the first 6 rounds of the pattern.
Remember, you can scroll down and get the pattern totally free here on my blog or by watching the YouTube tutorial, OR consider supporting my work by purchasing the ad-free printable PDF on Ravelry (Etsy coming soon too).
If you purchase the PDF you not only get something free of ads and printable but it’s also beautifully designed, there’s lots of photos to help you with the tricky parts of the pattern and you get to support a small family business. And for that, I am extremely grateful.
If you don’t want to buy anything but still want to show some support, the best way to do that is to share pictures of what you’re making on social media and tell people about it. Really! That’s it! You’re probably doing that anyway, right?
Alright, enough of all that… Let’s get started!
Video Tutorial
Notes
This pattern is Copyright © 2021 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
If you would like to share this pattern, please share the link to this webpage or the Ravelry pattern page (link below). Please do not distribute this pattern or photos in any other form. Please read more in the Copyright section.
Ravelry: Click here to favorite, queue, and hook up a project page for this pattern on Ravelry.
Help: If you need help or have any questions, scroll to the bottom of this page. There are links to where you can find lots of support.
Color Changes: At the beginning of each round, where possible, you’ll be given the option to start with new yarn (as in, a new color) or with the same yarn (continue with the same yarn as the previous round). The pattern will not tell you to fasten off at the end of a round unless it is necessary, and, in that case, the next round will only have the option to start with new yarn.
Details
Crochet Terminology: US
Skill Level: Intermediate
Stitches used: A wide and exciting variety, be prepared for anything!
Sizes: 12 inch/30cm circle
Hook size: 3.5mm or size needed for gauge
Gauge: 3 inches through round 4
Additional materials: 12” floral hoop or embroidery hoop, yarn need, scissors, ruler
Yarn: Sample uses scraps of Stylecraft Special DK, any DK scraps should work as long as your gauge is close
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- r(#) – round number
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sm – stitch marker
- sp – space
- st– stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Beg-cluster – ch2, [yo, insert hook into indicated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook] 2 times, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook
Cluster – [yo, insert hook into indicated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook] 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook
fpsc – {front post single crochet} just like regular sc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from front to back around the post of the st
Standing fpsc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
Standing tr – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo twice and hold those in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook three times {Alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch4 to count as your first tr}
Pattern
Round 1
Begin with magic circle {Alternatively: Ch4 and slst to first ch to form loop}. Ch4 {counts as first dc, ch1}. [Dc, ch1] into mc 7 times. Close mc. Slst to 3rd ch of starting ch to join.
16 sts around (8 dc, 8 ch1 sp)
Round 2
With new yarn: Slst to any ch1 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch1 sp.
Beg-cluster, ch3, sk next dc. [Cluster in next ch1 sp, ch3, sk next dc] 7 times. Slst to top of first cluster to join. Fasten off.
32 sts around (8 cluster, 8 ch3 sp)
Round 3
All sts worked into r1 dcs. Keep work in front of r2 sts.
With new yarn: Standing tr in any r1 dc, ch3, tr again in same dc.
[(Tr, ch3, tr) in next r1 dc] 7 times. Slst to first tr to join. Fasten off.
40 sts around (16 tr, 8 ch3 sp)
Note: An invisible join can really make your work shine! I recommend using one for rounds 4 & 6. Watch the video above to see how it’s done.
Round 4
All sts worked into r2, sk all r3 sts.
With new yarn: Standing fpsc around any r2 cluster by pulling the cluster to the front of your work from between the r3 trs {work all fpsc in this way}.
^(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next r2 ch3 sp by pulling the ch3 sp to the front from under the r3 ch3 sp,^ fpsc around next r2 cluster.
Repeat from * to * 6 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first fpsc to join. Fasten off.
56 sts around (32 dc, 8 fpsc, 8 ch2 sp)
Time to check your gauge! Your work should measure about 3 inches after r4. If it’s much smaller or larger than that, start over with a larger or smaller hook.
Round 5
All sts worked into r3 and behind r4.
With new yarn: Standing sc in any r3 ch3 sp.
^Ch1, (dc, ch2, dc) in sp between next 2 r3 trs {not the next ch3 sp, between the posts of the next 2 trs}, ch1,^ sc in next r3 ch3 sp.
Repeat from * to * 6 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
56 sts around (16 dc, 8 sc, 8 ch2 sp, 16 ch1 sp)
Round 6
With new yarn: Standing dc in any r5 ch2 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next (ch1, dc, ch2 sp), ch3 {counts as first dc}.
(2dc, ch1, 3dc) in same ch2 sp as first st.
^Sc in next r4 ch2 sp, sk next (dc, ch1, sc, ch1, dc) of r5 {now hidden behind r4 petal},^ (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next r5 ch2 sp.
Repeat from * to * 6 times more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
64 sts around (48 dc, 8 sc, 8 ch1 sp)
That’s it for today! Stay tuned for part 2…
Credits
Original crochet pattern design – Polly Plum
Photography and graphic design – Polly Plum
Testers:
Ann Downey
Leanne O’Connell
Paulina Smith
Jan White
If you’d like to show your support and/or say thank you for this free pattern – the most helpful thing you can do is share a picture of your work on Ravelry or Facebook. Seriously! That’s it. If you liked the pattern, tell your friends and show them what you made.
If you loved the pattern and want to make more, check out the Patterns page here on Every Trick on the Hook or my Ravelry store.
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