Pattern written in US crochet terms
Skill level: intermediate
Finished Size: 9 inch square or 12 inch square
Hook size: 5.5mm/I
Yarn: Worsted Weight or Aran
Final Stitch Count: 40 sts per side
Pattern Notes
Maybellene was named after the Chuck Berry song. Give it a listen while you crochet, if you can manage to stay sitting and not get up and dance.
This pattern is Copyright © 2018 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
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I pulled from my basket of scraps the day I made this square, so unfortunately, some of the colors have been discontinued. The colors used are all Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice and were used one per round in the following order: Duckie; Goldfish; Pink Grapefruit; Cheery Cherry; Scarlet; Raspberry; Lime; Fern; Kelly Green; Sea Spray Mist; Peacock; Aqua; Sky Blue; Sapphire.
I’ve worked up an almost identical palette in Stylecraft Special DK. The sequence is as follows: Saffron; Vintage Peach; Shrimp; Pomegranate; Matador; Fuchsia Purple; Pistachio; Grass Green; Kelly Green; Spring Green; Teal; Turquoise; Aster; Petrol.
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This pattern includes round by round graphics to help you visualize where the stitches go. They are not meant to be complete instructions. Rather, they complement it. Use them with the pattern to help you see where to place your stitches.
If you need help or have any questions, scroll to the bottom of this page. There are links to where you can find lots of support.
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- mc – magic circle
- r(#) – round number
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sp – space
- st– stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternately: slst into the indicated starting st and ch2}
Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternately: slst into the indicated starting st and ch3}
fpsc/fpdc – {front post single/double crochet} like regular sc/dc but instead of inserting the hook in the top two loops of a stitch you insert your hook from front to back around the post of the stitch to pull up a loop
bpsc – {back post single crochet} like regular sc but instead of inserting the hook in the top two loops of a stitch you insert your hook from back to front around the post of the stitch to pull up a loop
V stitch – dc, ch1, dc
W-V – {wide V} dc, ch2, dc
PC – {popcorn} 4dc into same st, remove hook from working loop, insert hook into first dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through first dc
Pattern
Begin with magic circle. {Click here to learn how to make a magic circle – video tutorial includes instructions for making a chain loop look like a magic circle.}
Round 1: Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. 2dc into mc, ch2 {ch2s count as corners}. [3dc into mc, ch2] 3 times. Slst to first dc to join.
12 dc, 3 ch2 sp (3 st per side)
Round 2: Slst into next 2 dc and next corner ch2 sp, ch4 and dc in same sp {counts as first V here and throughout}. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc, ch1, dc in any corner ch2 sp – counts as first V.} Ch1 and V again in same sp, ch1. *Sk next 3 dc, (V, ch1, V) in next corner ch2 sp, ch1.* Repeat from * to * twice more. Sk last 3 dc and slst to first dc of first V to join.
8 V, 8 ch1 sp (7 st per side)
Round 3: Sk all dc, work only into ch sps. Slst into ch1 sp of V, ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in ch1 sp of first V of any corner.} 2 more dc in same V. *^4dc into next ch1 sp, 3dc into next ch1 sp, sc in next ch1 sp,^ 3dc into next ch1 sp.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
40 dc, 4 sc (11 st per side)
Round 4: Slst into next dc, ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in second dc after any sc.} Dc again in same st. [2dc in next dc] twice. *^2tr in next dc, ch2, 2tr in next dc, [2dc in next dc] 3 times, sk next dc, fpsc around next sc, sk next dc,^ [2dc in next dc] 3 times.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
16 tr, 48 dc, 4 fpsc, 4 ch2 sp (17 st per side)
Round 5: Slst into next dc, ch1 and sc in same dc. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in second dc after any fpsc.} *^Ch1, sk next dc, V in next dc, sk next 2 dc, V in next tr, sk next tr, (V, ch2, V) in corner ch2 sp, sk next tr, V in next tr, sk next 2 dc, V in next dc, ch1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, sk next dc, fpsc around fpsc, sk next dc,^ sc in next dc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
24 V, 8 sc, 4 fpsc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp (21 st per side)
Round 6: Sk all sts and work only into ch sps, except where noted for post sts. Slst into next dc and next ch1 sp, ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in ch1 of first V after any sc.} 2 more dc into same sp. [3dc into ch1 of next V] twice. *^(2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner ch2 sp, [3dc into ch1 of next V] 3 times, ch1, fpdc around fpsc, ch1,^ [3dc into ch1 of next V] 3 times.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
16 tr, 72 dc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp (25 st per side)
Round 7: With new yarn: Standing bpsc around first tr after any ch2 corner sp, bpsc around next 9 st. *^Sk next dc, sk next ch1 sp, W-V in next fpdc, sk next ch1 sp, sk next dc, bpsc around next 10 st, ch3, sk next ch2 sp,^ bpsc around next 10 st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first bpsc to join.
4 W-V, 80 bpsc, 4 ch3 sp (24 st per side)
Click here to see a view of round 7 from the back.
9 INCH VERSION:
Round 8: Ch3. {Or, with new yarn: standing dc in first dc of any wide V.} *^2dc in next ch2 sp, dc in next 11 st {do not sk the dc of the wide V}, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next corner ch3 sp,^ dc in next 11 st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Dc in last 10 st. Slst to first dc to join.
112 dc, 4 ch2 sp (28 st per side)
Round 9: Ch1 and sc in same st. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in any st.} [Sc in each st across to corner, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp] 4 times. Sc in each remaining st to first st. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
120 sc, 4 ch2 sp (30 st per side)
12 INCH VERSION:
Round 8: Ch1 and sc in same st as join. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in first bpsc after any ch3 corner sp.} Sc in next 9 st. *^Ch2, sk next dc of W-V, (PC, ch2, PC, ch2) in ch2 sp of W-V, sk next dc of W-V, sc in next 10 bpsc, (2sc, ch2, 2sc) in corner ch3 sp,^ sc in next 10 bpsc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
8 PC, 96 sc, 16 ch2 sp (32 st per side)
Round 9: Ch1 and sc in same st as join, sc in next 8 sc. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in first sc of any side, sc in next 10 sc.} *^Ch2, sk next sc, [PC in next ch2 sp, ch2] 3 times {sk the PCs in between ch2 sps}, sk next sc, sc in next 11 sc, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp,^ sc in next 11 sc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Sc in last 2 sc if you used the same yarn. Slst to first sc to join.
12 PC, 96 sc, 20 ch2 sp (35 st per side)
Round 10: Ch2 {counts as first hdc here and throughout}, hdc in next 8 sc. {Or, with new yarn: standing hdc in first sc of any side, hdc in next 11 sc.} *^Sc in next ch2 sp, ch4, sk next (PC, ch2, PC, ch2, PC), sc in next ch2 sp, hdc in next 12 sc, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in corner ch2 sp,^ hdc in next 12 st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Hdc in last 3 sc if you used the same yarn. Slst to first hdc to join.
104 hdc, 8 sc, 4 ch4 sp, 4 ch2 sp (32 st per side)
Round 11: Ch1 and sc in same st as join, sc in next 9 st. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in first hdc of any side, sc in next 13 st.} *^Ch2, [PC in next r9 ch2 sp and the r10 ch4 sp together, ch2] twice, sc in next 14 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp,^ sc in next 14 st.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Sc in last 4 sc if you used the same yarn. Slst to first sc to join.
8 PC, 112 sc, 16 ch2 sp (36 st per side)
Round 12: Ch1 and sc in same st as join, sc in next 9 sc. {Or, with new yarn: standing sc in first sc of any side, sc in next 14 sc.} *^Sc in next ch2 sp, ch2, sk next (PC, ch2, PC), sc in next ch2 sp, sc in next 15 sc, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp,^ sc in next 15 sc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Sc in last 5 sc if you used the same yarn. Slst to first sc to join.
136 sc, 8 ch2 sp (36 st per side)
Round 13: Ch2, hdc in next 10 st. {Or, with new yarn: standing hdc in first sc of any side, hdc in next 16 st.} *^2hdc in the r12 ch2 sp and the r11 ch2 sp between PCs together, hdc in next 17 sc, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 sp,^ hdc in next 17 sc.* Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Hdc in last 6 sc if you used the same yarn. Slst to first hdc to join. Fasten off.
160 hdc, 4 ch2 sp (40 st per side)
Credits
Original pattern and design by Polly Plum
Photography & graphic design by Polly Plum
Pattern testing by Jan White
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