Resilience

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Resilience is square #3 in the Moogly CAL 2021 which features 24 different squares released every other week. It’s a ton of fun and you’ll find all kinds of new patterns and designers. Check it out!

Details

Pattern written in US crochet terms

Skill Level: intermediate

Finished Size: 12-inches

Hook Size: 6mm

Yarn: Red Heart With Love

Final Stitch Count: 37 sts per side

Materials

For the Moogly 2021 CAL we’re using Red Heart With Love. This 100% acrlic yarn is soft, snuggly, and surprisingly durable. I chose it for a blanket that I made for Mr. Plum, oh… about 5 or 6 years ago and he still uses it daily. He’s pretty hard on his things and this blanket has been washed about a million times. Though some of the softness has been beaten out of it by the washing machine, it’s still holding up exceptionally well.

I’m using a 6mm Tulip Etimo hook from my set. This is my go-to hook set for comfortable crocheting. I’ve found other ergonomic hooks to be too bulky for me, but these ones are just right. (Tip: the price on Amazon fluctuates a lot so keep an eye out for a good deal if it’s something you’d like to invest in. My set was under $50 USD.)

Color Planning

I don’t write my afghan block patterns with a specific color placement plan. I want to make sure you have all the room you need to be creative! So, you’ll find instructions on each round for starting with a new color yarn AND for continuing with the same color from the previous round (as applicable).

To help you plan your own color placement I’ll offer you a few tips and some inspiration.

The pattern is 12 rounds and visually breaks up into 3 sections of 4 rounds each.
Rounds 4 and 8 make the most prominent shapes, they are a good place to use your boldest colors.
Rounds 5 and 9 can support rounds 4 and 8 by using a high to mid contrasting color.
Take a look at some of the testers’ squares below and my descriptions of how they used color for inspiration.

Leanne used powerful and high contrast colors to make everything about her square pop, and then incorporated a matching variegated yarn to help things blend.

Ann used warm colors on the first 4 rounds, cool colors on the next 4 rounds, and then blended warm to cool for the final 4 rounds. A beautiful example of color theory in action!

Ann’s second square uses low contrast colors in an expert way, placing her only warm color and her darkest color on the most prominent rounds.

Courtney works some color magic that is often beyond explanation. It’s be just to view and let her inspire you.

Paulina used a low contrast palette placing white, her boldest color, on the prominent rounds and used the same color for several rounds in a row to allow the negative space to shine.

Heather brings us an example of an entirely solid color square so you can see how the texture and negative space can do all the heavy lifting if you don’t feel like playing with color at all.

Notes

This pattern is Copyright © 2021 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
If you would like to share this pattern, please share the link to this webpage or the Ravelry pattern page (link below). Please do not distribute this pattern or photos in any other form. Please read more in the Copyright section.

Ravelry: Click here to favorite, queue, and hook up a project page for this pattern on Ravelry.

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Help: If you need help or have any questions, scroll to the bottom of this page. There are links to where you can find lots of support.

Video Tutorial

Abbreviations

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
pm – place marker
r(#) – round number
rm – remove marker
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
sm – stitch marker
sp – space
st– stitch
tr – treble crochet
yo – yarn over

Special Stitches

Special Stitches

Dc2tog – {double crochet two together} yo and insert hook into indicated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook, yo and insert hook into next indicated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook

Fpdc/fptr – {front post double/treble crochet} just like regular dc/tr, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from front to back around the post of the st

Sbphdc/sbpsc – {shallow back post hdc/sc} just like regular hdc/sc, but insert hook under top two loops of indicated st from back to front and then under top two loops of next st from front to back {Click here to watch the Moogly tutorial for shallow post stitches}

V – {V-stitch} (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated st or sp

Standing Stitches

Note: Standing stitches are totally optional! See the note in italics at the end of each standing stitch for the alternative beginning stitch.

Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc}

Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch2 to count as your first hdc}

Standing sbphdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook under top two loops of indicated st from back to front and then under top two loops of next st from front to back, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch2 to count as your first sbphdc; Click here to watch the Moogly tutorial for shallow post stitches}

Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook

Standing tr – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo twice and hold those in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook three times {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch4 to count as your first tr}

Pattern

Round 1

Begin with a magic circle. Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}. {Alternatively, if you hate magic circles: ch4 and slst to first ch to join and form a loop. Slst into ch loop and ch3.}
2dc into mc, ch2. [3dc into mc, ch2] 3 times. Slst to top of beginning ch3 to join.
20 st around (12 dc, 4 ch2 sp)

Round 2

With new yarn: Standing dc in middle dc of any 3dc group, ch1, dc again in same st {counts as first V}.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next st, ch4 and dc in same st {counts as first V}.
Ch2, V again in same st as first V.
*^Ch1, sk next dc, sc in next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next dc,^ (V, ch2, V) in next dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc {or 3^rd ch of beginning ch4} of first V to join.
44 st around (8 V, 4 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp)

Round 3

This round only, when working into V sts, work into their ch1 sps and sk the dcs.
With new yarn: Standing dc in ch1 sp of first V after any sc, ch1, dc again in same sp {counts as first V}.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into ch1 sp of first V, ch4 and dc in same sp {counts as first V}.
*^Ch1, (dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2 sp, ch1, V in next V, ch1, sk next ch1 sp, sc in next sc, ch1, sk next ch1 sp,^ V in next V.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc of first V to join {or 3rd ch of beginning ch4}.
60 st around (8 V, 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 16 ch1 sp)

Round 4

With new yarn: Standing sc in first dc of first V after any sc.
Or, with same yarn: Ch1 and sc in same st as join.
*^(Sc, ch1, sc) in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc, sc in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2 sp, sc in next dc, sc in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc, (sc, ch1, sc) in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc, fpdc around r2 sc, sk next (ch1, sc, ch1) {now hidden behind the fpdc},^ sc in next dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
76 st around (4 fpdc, 56 sc, 8 ch1 sp, 4 ch2 sp)

Round 5

With new yarn: Standing tr in any fpdc, ch3, tr again in same fpdc.
*^Ch1, sk next (2sc, ch1), sbpsc around each of next 5 sc, ch2, sk ch2 sp, sbpsc around each of next 5 sc, ch1, sk next (ch1, 2sc),^ (tr, ch3, tr) in next fpdc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first tr to join.
76 st around (8 tr, 40 sbpsc, 4 ch3 sp, 4 ch2 sp, 8 ch1 sp)

Round 6

With new yarn: Standing dc in any ch3 sp between trs.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next ch3 sp, ch3.
(4dc, ch2, 5dc) into same sp as first dc.
*^Ch2, sk next (tr, ch1, 3sbpsc), sc in next sbpsc, ch3, sk next (sbpsc, ch2, sbpsc), sc in next sbpsc, ch2, sk next (3sbpsc, ch1, tr),^ (5dc, ch2, 5dc) in next ch3 sp {ch2 counts as corner}.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
19 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (40 dc, 8 sc, 4 ch3 sp, 12 ch2 sp)

Round 7

With new yarn: Standing dc in first dc after any (sc, ch2).
Or, with same yarn: Ch3.
*^[2dc in next dc, dc in next dc] twice, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp, dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc, dc in next dc] twice, ch1, sk next (ch2, sc), (sc, ch1, sc) into next ch3 sp AND r5 ch2 sp together, ch1, sk next (sc, ch2),^ dc in next dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
23 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (72 dc, 8 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 12 ch1 sp)

Round 8

With new yarn: Standing dc in first dc after any ch1 sp, dc again in same st.
Or, with same yarn: Ch3, dc in same st as join.
Dc in each of next 2 dc, [2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc] twice.
*^(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp, [dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc] 3 times, sk next (ch1, sc), sc in next ch1 sp, sk next (sc, ch1),^ [2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc] 3 times.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
29 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (112 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch2 sp)

Round 9

With new yarn: Standing sbphdc around 5^th dc after any sc.
Sbphdc around each of next 9 dc.
*^Ch2, sk next ch2 sp, sbphdc around each of next 10 dc, ch1, sk next 4 dc, (tr, ch1, fptr, ch1, tr) in next sc, ch1, sk next 4dc,^ sbphdc around each of next 10 dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sbphdc to join.
27 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (80 sbphdc, 4 fptr, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp, 16 ch1 sp)

Round 10

With new yarn: Standing hdc in 2^nd sbphdc after any ch1 sp.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next sbphdc, ch2 {counts as first hdc}.
Hdc in each of next 6 sbphdc.
*^Ch1, sk next 2 sbphdc, (V, ch2, V) in next corner ch2 sp, ch1, sk next 3 sbphdc {the first will now be hidden under the Vs just made}, hdc in each of next 7 sbphdc, hdc in next ch1 sp, ch1, sk next tr, dc in next ch1 sp, ch1, dc2tog working first leg into ch1 sp with the dc and 2^nd leg into next ch1 sp {skipping the fptr}, ch1, dc in same ch1 as 2^nd leg of dc2tog, ch1, sk next tr, hdc in next ch1, sk next hdc {now hidden},^ hdc in each of the next 7 sbphdc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first hdc to join.
31 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (8 V, 4 dc2tog, 8 dc, 64 hdc, 24 ch1 sp)

Round 11

With new yarn: Standing dc in hdc after join.
Or, with same yarn: Slst into next hdc, ch3.
Dc in each of next 5 hdc.
*^2dc in next ch1 sp, ch1, sk next V, (V, ch2, V) in next corner ch2 sp, ch1, sk next V, 2dc in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc {now hidden}, dc in each of next 6 hdc, ch1, sk next hdc, dc in next ch1 sp, ch1, [dc2tog working first leg into same ch sp as last st and 2^nd leg into next ch1 sp, ch1] 3 times {skipping sts between ch1 sps}, dc in same ch1 sp as 2^nd leg of last dc2tog, ch1, sk next 2 hdc {first will be hidden},^ dc in each of next 6 hdc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
35 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (8 V, 12 dc2tog, 72 dc, 4 ch2 sp, 32 ch1 sp)

Round 12

With new yarn: Standing sc in any st.
Or, with same yarn: Ch1, sc in same st as join.
*Sc in each st and ch1 sp across to next corner ch2 sp, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Sc in each st and ch1 sp across to first sc. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
37 sts per side, not counting ch2 corners (148 sc, 4 ch2 sp)

Weave all ends and block.

Credits

Original crochet pattern design – Polly Plum

Photography and graphic design – Polly Plum

Testers:

Heather Dykstra

Courtney Laube

Leanne O’Connell

Paulina Smith

Jan White

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