I have a present for you. It’s your Christmas present. I know it’s only November. But I think we as crafters can more fully appreciate why the Christmas decorations show up in stores as early as October. These events don’t put themselves together. Someone – if you’re reading this, then it’s probably you – spends hours, days, weeks, sometimes months, brainstorming, planning, scheming, and plotting the elaborate decorations and parties and activities that go along with the holiday celebration. And we crafters tend to spend even more time on the preparations because of all the things we insist on making ourselves. So with that in mind, I want you to have your present and have enough time to actually use it for the holiday season.
Even more exciting, this present comes along with an event. Everyone’s favorite: a Crochet-Along! My friend Andrea is hosting a delightful Christmas Tree ornament CAL on her blog, Kokopelli Design, and I’ve created a new pattern just to go along with it. Andrea promises a relaxed event that won’t add to your pre-holiday stress. If you’ve been putting off making your own ornaments (like I have), then this could be just the motivation you need.
The ornaments you’ll be making start with hexagon patterns, so I’ve designed a brand new snowflake hexagon for you to play with. The pattern is below and forever free, my gift to you.
If you’re not really into making ornaments or hexagons – I made an additional present for you. The snowflake pattern also comes in a 9 inch square afghan block. You’ll make the first 6 rounds of the hexagon before you move on to the square pattern.
One last thing before we move on. Let’s talk about size. This hexagon made with worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm hook will measure about 6 inches from side-to-side – perfect for an afghan, probably a little bit too big for an ornament. Use your best discretion and read the yarn label of your chosen yarn to determine the best size of hook to use.
Now, on to the pattern!
Blizzard Warning! – Crochet Hexagon Pattern
Some things to keep in mind:
- I don’t usually make color change suggestions because I don’t like to hamper your creativity. But for this pattern I’ve included the info because of the way it’s constructed. I still encourage you to do whatevertheheck you want with it though. It’s your creation. Go crazy!
- And to help with color placement, download the color placement coloring sheets:
- When working into a picot it’s important to find the right spot to make your stitches. It’s easy to mistakenly work under your picot or to just catch one or two loops at the top of your picot. A picot is essentially a ch3 loop, so you’ll want to work into the center of the loop. Make an effort to find that center – I know it can be hard to see – but you’ll notice it really makes a difference in your final piece.
- If you really want to print the instructions, but don’t want to print the numerous pictures, you can now download text only instructions here.
- This pattern is free for personal use only. Please see my Copyright page for more details on what that means.
Materials and Size:
- For a full size hexagon 6 inches measured side to side: use worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm hook (use a 5.0 for RHSS or Vanna’s Choice)
- For a smaller hexagon for ornaments: use DK yarn and 3.5mm hook, you’ll still get a pretty good sized ornament out of this (I’m currently working on one and it’s about 8 inches across, it’s going to be a show stopper for sure!)
- For an even smaller ornament decrease hook and yarn even more. The pattern adapts well to changing yarns and hook sizes.
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
r(#) = round number
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
slst = slip stitch
sp = space
st = stitch
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over
- V: dc, ch1, dc
- Beg V: ch4 (counts as dc, ch1), dc
- Beg puff stitch: pull the current loop on your hook up to about the height of a dc and then proceed with puff stitch instructions
- Puff stitch: (yo, insert hook into indicated sp and pull up a loop) 4 times, yo and pull through all 9 loops on hook, ch1 (Note: the ch1 at the end of the puff creates the “eye” of the puff and does not count towards any additional chs that may come after the puff stitch.)
- Picot V: dc, picot, dc
- Picot wide V: (dc, ch1, picot, ch1, dc) into same stitch or space
- Beg picot wide V: (ch3 (counts as first dc) or standing dc, ch1, picot, ch1, dc) into same stitch or space
- Picot: ch3, slst into first ch
- Picot fan: (dc, picot) 3 times, dc
- Tr picot fan: (tr, picot) 3 times, tr
Begin with magic circle.
Round 1: With Color A. Beg puff into magic circle. Ch1. (Puff into magic circle, ch1) 5 times. Slst to first puff to join.
6 puff stitches, 6 ch1 sp
Round 2: Slst into next ch1 sp and work beg picot wide V into that sp. (Sk next puff, picot wide V into next ch1 sp) 5 times. Slst to first dc of beg picot wide V to join. Fasten off.
6 picot wide V stitches
Round 3: With Color B. With new color, standing sc in first dc of any picot wide V. *^Working behind stitches from r2: (tr, ch3, tr) into same ch1 sp from r1 that picot V was made into, placing trs between dcs of picot V.^ Sc into first dc of NEXT picot V.* Repeat from * to * four times and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join.
12 tr, 6 sc, 6 ch3 sp
Round 4: Ch1 and sc in same st. *^Ch1, sk next tr, work picot fan into next ch3 sp, ch1, sk next tr,^ sc in next sc.* Repeat from * to * 4 times, and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
6 picot fans, 6 sc, 12 ch1 sp
Round 5: With Color A. Working behind stitches from r4, standing dc into the unworked tr from r3 that falls after any sc and before the next picot fan from r4. *^Ch2. Working under the center picot and between the 2 middle dc of the picot fan: work 1 dc into the next picot from r2. Ch2. Working behind st from r4: dc in the unworked tr from r3 that falls after the picot fan, ch1,^ dc in theunworked tr from r3 that falls after the next sc.* Repeat from * to * 4 times and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join.
18 dc, 12 ch2 sp, 6 ch1 sp
Note: R6 is worked entirely into ch spaces of r5 and will not tell you to sk stitches.
Round 6: Slst into next ch2 sp and work beg V into same ch2 sp. *^Ch1, V into next ch2 sp, ch1, puff into next ch1 sp, ch1,^ V into next ch2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 4 times and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to 3rd ch of beg V to join.
12 V, 6 Puffs, 18 ch1 sp
Note: If you’re making the square rather than the hexagon, this is where you stop following this pattern and move on to the square pattern.
Round 7: Ch1, sc in same ch as join. (Sc in next st or ch1 sp) 6 times. *^2sc in next ch1 sp (the ch1 sp before the puff), ch1, sk puff, 2sc in next ch1 sp,^ (sc in next st or ch1 sp) 7 times.* Repeat from * to * 4 times and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
66 sc, 6 ch1 sp (11 st per side)
Round 8: With Color B. (Standing sc, ch1, sc) in any ch1 sp. *^Sc in next 5 st, dc into center picot of picot fan from r4, sk next sc (now hidden by the dc), sc in next 5 st,^ (sc, ch1, sc) in next ch1 sp.* Repeat from * to * 4 times and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
78 sc, 6 ch1 sp (13 st per side)
Weave in all ends and block if necessary.
There you have it. Your snowflake hexagon is complete. Now make another one and head on over to Kokopelli Design for the ornament CAL.
Oh, and Merry Christmas!