It’s officially 2022. I can’t quite wrap my head around that. It’s 2022 and we’re still in a global pandemic. I can’t wrap my head around that either. So much has happened in the past two years and I don’t feel like rehashing any of it. We all saw it. We all lived through it. And we were the lucky ones because not everyone did.
So, while I’m feeling excited about a new year and its possibilities, it’s also rather sobering thinking back at all we’ve experienced and how recent it is.
This is the third year in a row I’ve been asked to open the Crochet Block a Month CAL as held in the Ravelry group with the same name. Each year, I’ve found it an inspiring thing to do. I’m one of those people that loves the changing of the year. Dates help me organize my mind, so a fresh year is an easy place for me to mark the start of things. I also love to reflect and a big calendar shift is a great reason to do that.
The first year of opening the BAM CAL was the eve of 2020 and weren’t we all excited to see what was in store. I named that block Cheers! to celebrate the day. At the end of 2020 we were all pretty glad to put the mess of a year behind us, so I named that block Hindsight.
Well, 2021 didn’t solve all the problems that 2020 brought. We might even have a few more. I don’t know, I stopped counting. But I did notice a shift. And I’ve heard other people mention they noticed a shift. A shift in people. Not all of them, of course. There’s still plenty out there who want to drive us nuts, push buttons and cause trouble. I’m not talking about them. I’m talking about you and me. I think… I think we may be learning. I think we may be growing. It’s slow, as all important growth is. But I think it’s happening. I hope it’s happening.
So this year’s block is called Hope Springs. Because even with all we’ve been through and all we’ve seen, as broken as our hearts have been, we still grow. We still repair ourselves and we get back to the business of living and, damn… that’s beautiful. Humans are amazing creatures. You are an amazing creature. Remember that.
So please keep hoping. Keep growing. We’re all in this together and it’s the only way we’re going to get out of it. Together.
Now! Onto the business of crochet. Because, that’s why you’re here, isn’t it?
This year’s block is a little something different. I say that about every pattern don’t I? Well, hopefully that’s a good thing. I like different.
I went with an elegant and classy sort of style. There’s some new tricks in there, and some old ones. I think you’ll enjoy it. Especially if you’ve made my patterns before. I hope this feels fresh to you!
Let’s get to it…
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Pattern PDF
First off, and importantly:
The pattern is totally FREE right here on this very webpage.
But you can also buy the premium PDF version of the pattern and get a beautifully designed, printable, ad free pattern to add to your pattern binder all while supporting a small business.
So, why buy the PDF? The 13 page pattern PDF includes lots of extras I know you’ll love, including:
- It’s printable
- It’s ad free
- It’s pretty! I put a lot of work into my graphic design so that you’ll enjoy looking at the printed pattern just as much as you enjoy making it and looking at what you’ve made
- There are lots of photos and tips to make the pattern as simple to follow as possible
- Row by row photos of the round 9 corners
- A color planning diagram – basically a coloring sheet for your square to help you plan and/or visualize what it will look like in your chosen colors
- My own tips on color placement
- It comes in both US and UK terminology
- You get to support a small business! And isn’t it nice to know you’re contributing to a family paying for real everyday expenses like buying diapers for their relentless poop machines… uh, I mean darling children, instead of a billionaires third yacht?
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If you don’t feel like purchasing anything today, that’s ok! The written pattern below contains everything you need to make this exact square. It’s even tested just as it’s presented below to be sure that it’s clear and easy to make even without all the extras.
So, then… let’s get to it!
Details
Pattern written in US crochet terms
Skill Level: intermediate
Finished Size: 12-inches in Aran or 10-inches in DK
Hook Size: 5mm with Aran or 4mm with DK
Yarn: for pictured sample, Stylecraft Belissima DK in Rio Red (A), Sugar Snap (C), Smoked Pearl (D), Totally Teal (E), and Stylecraft Bambino DK in Awesome Avocado (B)
Final Stitch Count: 41 sts per side
Color Planning
For this pattern I’ve included color placement instructions for 5 colors, but you’re always welcome to do your own thing too!
Notes
This pattern is Copyright © 2022 Polly Plum. All rights reserved.
If you would like to share this pattern, please share the link to this webpage or the Ravelry pattern page (link below). Please do not distribute this pattern or photos in any other form. Please read more in the Copyright section.
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Help: If you need help or have any questions, scroll to the bottom of this page. There are links to where you can find lots of support. Remember, there’s lots of tips and photos in the paid PDF to help you along your way too.
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- mc – magic circle
- r(#) – round/row number
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- slst – slip stitch
- sp – space
- st – stitch
- tr – treble crochet
- yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Bpsc – {back post single crochet} just like regular sc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from back to front around the post of the st
Beg-PC – {beginning popcorn stitch} ch3 {counts as first dc}, 3dc in indicated st or sp, remove hook from working loop and hold while you insert hook into top ch of first ch3 made, put working loop back on hook and pull through
PC – {popcorn stitch} 4dc in indicated st or sp, remove hook from working loop and hold while you insert hook into top two loops of first of 4dc made, put working loop back on hook and pull through dc
Picot – ch3, slst to back bump of first ch
Sbpdc – {shallow back post dc} insert hook under top two loops of next st from back to front and then under top two loops of st after that from front to back, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through two loops on hook] twice
WV – {Wide V Stitch} dc, ch2, dc
Standing Stitches
Note: Standing stitches are totally optional! See the note in italics at the end of each standing stitch for the alternative beginning stitch.
Standing bpsc – just like regular bpsc, but instead of inserting your hook in the top two loops of indicated st, insert from back to front around the post of the st
Standing dc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through two loops on hook twice {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch3 to count as your first dc}
Standing hdc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, hold slip knot in place with thumb or finger, yo and hold that in place too, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, carefully yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook {alternatively, slst to join yarn then ch2 to count as your first hdc}
Standing sc – to start a round, with slip knot on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops on hook
Pattern
Round 1
With color A.
Begin with magic circle {Alternatively: Ch4 and slst to first ch to form loop}. Into mc make beg-PC, ch3, [PC, ch3] 3 times. Close mc. Slst to top of beg-PC to join. Fasten off.
16 st around (4 PC, 4 ch3 sp)
Round 2
With color B.
(Standing dc, dc, ch5, 2dc) in any ch3 sp, ch2 {counts as corner through r8}, sk next PC. *(2dc, ch5, 2dc) in next ch3 sp, ch2, sk next PC.* Repeat from * to * twice more. Slst to first dc to join. Do NOT fasten off.
9sts per side not counting ch2 corners (16 dc, 4 ch5 sp, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 3
Ch3 {counts as first dc here and throughout}, dc in first st {same st as join}. *^Sk next dc, 3sc in next ch5 sp, sk next dc, 2dc in next dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next corner ch2 sp,^ 2dc in next dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to top of starting ch3 to join. Do NOT fasten off.
11 sts per side (32 dc, 12 sc, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 4
Ch1 and sc in same st as join, sc in each of next 8 sts. *^(Sc, ch2, sc) in next corner ch2 sp,^ sc in each of next 11 sts.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Sc in each of last 2 sts. Fasten off and invisible join to first sc.
13 sts per side (52 sc, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 5
With color C.
(Standing dc, dc, ch2, 2dc) in any corner ch2 sp. *Sbpdc around each of next 13 sc,^ (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Fasten off and invisible join to first dc.
17 sts per side (16 dc, 52 sbpdc, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 6
With color D.
(Standing dc, ch2, dc) in any corner ch2 sp {counts as first WV}, ch2, WV again in same sp. *^Ch1, sk next 2 st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next 2 st, [WV in next st, ch1, sk next 2 st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next 2 st] twice,* (WV, ch2, WV) in corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
25 st per side (16 WV, 12 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 24 ch1 sp)
Round 7
With color E. Sk all sts and ch1 sps. Work only into ch 2 sps.
(Standing dc, dc, picot, 2dc) in any corner ch2 sp. *^4dc in next ch2 sp, ch1, [5dc in next ch2 sp, ch1] twice, 4dc in next ch2 sp,^ (2dc, picot, 2dc) in corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Fasten off and invisible join to first dc.
25 sts per side not counting picot corners (4 picots, 88 dc, 12 ch1 sp)
Round 8
With color A.
Standing bpsc around first dc after any picot, bpsc around each of next 5 dc. *^Ch1, PC in skipped r6 sc keeping st in front of r7 ch1 sp {do not work over r7 ch1 sp, work in front of it, work all PC this way in this round}, ch1, sk r7 ch1 sp {now hidden behind PC}, [bpsc around each of next 5 dc, ch1, PC in skipped r6 sc, ch1] twice, bpsc around each of next 6 dc, ch2, sk picot,^ bpsc around each of next 6 dc.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first bpsc to join. Fasten off.
31 sts per side (12 PC, 88 bpsc, 4 ch2 sp, 24 ch1 sp)
Note: from here we will turn our square on to its point and the corner chain 2 spaces will no longer be the corners.
Round 9 – Corners
The corners are made individually. Make one at a time on each side of your square.
Row 9a (WS)
With color B. Flip square over so that WS is facing you. Work sts between ch2 corners.
Sk first bpsc, standing sc in 2nd bpsc of side, sc in each of next 4 bpsc. [Ch3, sk next (ch1, PC, ch1), sc in each of next 5 bpsc] 3 times. Sk last bpsc. Turn.
29 sts (20 sc, 3 ch3 sps)
Row 9b (RS)
Ch3 {counts as first dc made into first sc}, sk next sc, [sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, 5dc in next ch3 sp, sk next 2 sc] 3 times, sc in next sc, sk next sc, dc in last sc. Turn.
21 sts (17 dc, 4 sc)
Row 9c (WS)
Ch4 {counts as first tr made into first st here and throughout corner}, sk next 3 sts, sc in next dc {this will always be the middle dc of the 5dc group}, [ch1, sk next 2 sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next sc, ch1, sk next 2 sts, sc in next dc] twice, sk next 3 sts, tr in top ch of beginning r9b ch3. Turn.
22 sts (2 tr, 4 dc, 3 sc, 3 ch3 sp, 4 ch1 sp)
Row 9d (RS)
Ch1 and sc in first tr, sc in next sc, [sk next (ch1, dc), 5dc in next ch3 sp, sk next (dc, ch1), sc in next sc] twice, sc in top ch of beginning r9c ch4. Turn.
15 sts (10 dc, 5 sc)
Row 9e (WS)
Ch4, sk next 3 sts, sc in next dc, ch1, sk next 2 sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next sc, ch1, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 3 sts, tr in last sc. Turn.
11 sts (2 tr, 2 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch1 sp, 1 ch3 sp)
Row 9f (RS)
Ch1 and sc in first tr, sc in next sc, sk next (ch1, dc), 5dc in next ch3 sp, sk next (dc, ch1), sc in next sc, sc in top ch of beginning r9e ch4. Turn.
9 sts (5 dc, 4 sc)
Row 9g (WS)
Ch4, sk next 3 sts, sc in next dc, sk next 3 sts, tr in last sc. Fasten off.
3 sts (2 tr, 1 sc)
End of Corner.
Round 10
With color B. With RS facing you.
(Standing hdc, hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in middle sc of r9g of any corner {ch2 counts as new corner}. *^3hdc around post of next tr, [hdc into side of next sc, 3hdc around post of next tr] twice, 2hdc around post of next dc, hdc into side of next sc, hdc in skipped r8 sc {the one just before the ch2 sp}, sc in r7 picot, sk r8 ch2 sp, hdc in next r8 sc, hdc into side of next r9a sc, 2hdc around post of next dc, 3 hdc around post of next tr, [hdc into side of next sc, 3hdc around post of next tr] twice,^ (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in middle sc of r9g.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Fasten off and invisible join to first hdc.
35 sts per side not counting ch2 corners (136 hdc, 4 sc, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 11
With color C.
(Standing dc, dc, ch2, 2dc) in any corner ch2 sp. *Sbpdc around each of next 35 sts,^ (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first dc to join. Fasten off.
39 sts per side (16 dc, 140 sbpdc, 4 ch2 sp)
Round 12
With color D.
(Standing sc, ch2, sc) in any corner ch2 sp. *Sc in each of next 39 sts,^ (sc, ch2, sc) in next corner ch2 sp.*
Repeat from * to * twice more and from ^ to ^ once more. Slst to first sc to join. Fasten off.
41 sts per side (164 sc, 4 ch2 sp)
Weave all ends and block.
Credits
Original crochet pattern design – Polly Plum
Photography and graphic design – Polly Plum
Testers:
Ann Downey
Courtney Laube
Leanne O’Connell
Jan White
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